For Marcano, this surge in peptides—messengers that direct skin cells to perform specific tasks—among end consumers has come for good reason.
— They’ve moved from ‘ingredient of the moment’ to foundational technology, he says. The driving factors? Consumers want science-backed, non-invasive options that actually work. They’re more sophisticated than ever about ingredients. Have we hit peak peptides? I don’t think so. We’re still in the early innings of understanding how different peptide sequences can be optimised for specific outcomes. The next wave will be about precision—targeted peptides for targeted concerns, not generic ‘peptide complexes.’ That’s where we’ve focused with PFRC: four distinct peptide technologies, each with a specific function.
You’ve just launched Peptide Facial Refining Concentrate. What have you created?
— We set out to solve a real gap in the market: patients want injectable-like results, but either aren’t ready for needles or want to extend what they’re already getting from their provider. This product is our answer—a highly concentrated serum with a potent peptide blend targeting both dynamic and static wrinkles while restoring the appearance of lost volume. What makes it unique is that we’ve engineered a single product that complements multiple injectable outcomes—neurotoxins and fillers—in one step. It works as a standalone or as a bridge between appointments.
Except for the forementioned precision—targeted peptides, what do you forecast will be the next big thing?
— Peptides are really part of a larger shift toward regenerative skincare—moving from masking signs of ageing to restoring and renewing skin at a cellular level. Growth factors, exosomes, stem-cell technologies—they’re all gaining traction because they work with the skin’s natural biology rather than against it. Next out, I think we’ll be talking about the convergence of at-home and in-office. The line between what a product can do and what requires a procedure is blurring. That’s exciting for physicians and consumers alike.
As a brand, what else do you have coming?
— We have meaningful innovations in the pipeline that continue this regenerative skincare direction—I can’t say more yet, but it’s an area where ZO has deep expertise. Beyond product, we’re investing heavily in protocols and education. That’s the core of our philosophy: skin health is a system, not a single product. Our physician partners are central to that, and we’re building tools to make prescribing the right regimen even more intuitive.
And what about you? What else do you look at now?
— It’s an exciting time to be in this space. The science is advancing rapidly, consumer expectations are higher than ever, and there’s real opportunity for brands that lead with integrity and innovation, says Marcano. He continues:
— The physician-dispensed channel is at an inflexion point. Clinic traffic patterns have shifted post-COVID, and brands that relied solely on in-office capture are feeling it. The winners will be those who drive consumer demand upstream—making patients ask for specific brands before they walk in—while still honouring the physician relationship. It’s a delicate balance, but it’s the future of this channel.
— Second, I’d push back on the ‘clean beauty versus clinical efficacy’ framing. Consumers don’t want to choose. They want products that are both responsible and effective. The brands that figure out how to communicate clinical rigour without sounding cold or inaccessible will win.
— And finally: simplification. The proliferation of SKUs and 12-step routines has created decision fatigue. I think we’ll see a flight to curated, protocol-based approaches—fewer products, better guidance, more trust in the expert!
