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Beauty Innovation
The university alumni’s journey to presenting a world-first cosmetic innovation
Viktoria Engqvist shares the insights and lessons learned from when creating Lea Cares: ”Don’t be afraid to pivot from your original ideas.”
By JOHAN MAGNUSSON
27 Aug 2024

During her university pharmacy studies, Viktoria Engqvist founded Lea Cares, a company focused on developing products for healthier nails, skin, and hair.

— What began as a summer intern project has now grown into a full-time venture, and I see an exciting future in this field, she says.

The venture was born from her experiences in research labs at the Ångström Laboratory in Uppsala — a one-hour drive north of Stockholm — where she spent three summers working on various cosmetic-related projects. 

— Inspired by my father, Håkan Engqvist, professor of applied materials science, I began exploring how to strengthen hair, skin, and nails by locally delivering calcium and silicon — two essential elements for collagen production.

— We initially experimented with delivering these elements through a nail polish, but after extensive testing, we found that a nail serum would be even more effective. We created one that has been scientifically proven to strengthen nails from within. Our patented technology for the local release of calcium silicate has opened doors to a wide range of applications, not only in the beauty industry but also in fields like agriculture and medical technology.

Balancing studies with running a startup, Engqvist continues, has been challenging but also rewarding. 

— I’ve developed skills in branding, marketing, and finance, in addition to my background in chemistry and biology. Currently, we’re working on a relaunch of our nail serum, and we have new products, such as a hair serum, in the pipeline. At the same time, we are exploring new industrial applications for our technology.

Lea Cares’ products are available in Sweden and a couple of Nordic countries via distributors, also aiming for long-term further international expansion. As the health and beauty market continues to grow, consumers are increasingly seeking sustainable and effective products grounded in scientific research. According to Engqvist, it’s a perfect timing for her range.

— Our technology is backed by extensive research conducted at Uppsala University, ensuring a strong scientific foundation, she shares, continuing,

— One of the key challenges in beauty as we age is the decline in collagen levels, which affects the quality of our hair, skin, and nails. Our patented technology addresses this issue by enabling the precise absorption of essential minerals like silicon and calcium, which are crucial for maintaining optimal health in these areas. What makes our approach unique is its ability to reach fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen, thereby directly enhancing collagen production at the source.

How?

— Our innovation centres around calcium silicate, a water-soluble compound that allows for the targeted delivery of these minerals directly to where they’re needed. This approach significantly boosts collagen production at the cellular level, providing a more effective solution than systemic delivery through dietary supplements.

— While silicon dioxide is known for its benefits in strengthening hair, skin, and nails when taken as a dietary supplement, our technology offers a far superior and more precise effect. By delivering these minerals locally, we achieve up to 400 times more silicon at the targeted site, resulting in a much more potent and focused outcome.

— This breakthrough doesn’t just have implications for the beauty industry; it has the potential to be applied in medical devices, veterinary care, and even agriculture. We’ve cracked the code on how to increase silicon and calcium levels at the cellular level, which in turn boosts collagen production significantly. Our oil-based formulation, incorporating this technology, is a world-first in the cosmetic industry, and we are the sole patent holders of this innovation.

Lea Cares.

Can you take us through the main challenges until where you are today?

— One of the biggest ones has been finding our way in the overwhelming jungle of products available on the market today, Engqvist shares. It’s difficult for consumers to know what truly works when so many claims are made — but not all are backed by solid science. Standing out in such a crowded space is a real challenge. However, with my background, passion for cosmetics, and deep interest in beauty and skincare, I’ve been determined to create something that not only works but also stands out by delivering real, scientifically proven results.

— Another key lesson has been the importance of being flexible and willing to adapt. As I mentioned, we initially planned to develop a nail polish but as we progressed, it became clear that this was more difficult than anticipated. We had to pivot and instead focus on creating an oil-based formulation. This change in direction was crucial for our success, and it taught me the value of staying open to new possibilities and adjusting the plan when necessary.

— During our pre-launch, where the main focus was on gathering user feedback, nearly all of the responses have been overwhelmingly favourable. Users have seen real results, with many resolving the issues they were facing. This strong positive feedback has been very encouraging as we continue to develop and refine our products. We’ve been focusing heavily on building our brand and listening to our users, and now we’re gearing up for a major launch this fall. Along with this, we have some exciting new products in our lineup that will be released soon.

Viktoria Engqvist’s 6 insights when creating Lea Cares