Lancôme’s patented triple dose serum fuses into a high-performance anti-ageing concentrate
Inspired by regenerative skin sciences, the leading skincare label aimed to develop a multi-tasking product to fight the lack of volumes, wrinkles, and dark spots.
By JOHAN MAGNUSSON
June 21, 2022
Rénergie H.C.F. Triple Serum is the result of 3 years of development, more than 300 formulation trials, 10 different packaging prototypes, and 246 quality controls. It’s a three-in-one solution, concentrating doses of Hyaluronic Acid, C + Niacinamide, and Ferulic Acid with a simple push on the bottle into the palm of the user’s hand.
— We aimed to develop a multi-tasking product to fight the lack of volumes, wrinkles, and dark spots. We specifically selected well-known derm-ingredient previously deemed incompatible: hyaluronic acid, vitamin C derivative plus niacinamide, and ferulic acid for their complementary action, in order to help restore skin’s full regenerative potential and fight signs of skin ageing. To make the impossible possible and combine these incompatible ingredients, our laboratories pushed the limits of formulation science and designed a high-tech pack specifically for this new serum, says Dr Annie Black, Lancôme’s international scientific director. She elaborates:
— To ensure optimal stability, concentration, and efficacy, we had to formulate our ingredients in 3 formulas held separately and protected from air, light, and impurities, in an innovative and exclusive packaging with 3 airless chambers. These 3 formulas are individually delivered and freshly fused just before application.
Lancôme selected active ingredients having complementary action on different signs of skin ageing, in order to help restore the skin’s full regenerative potential.
— Ferulic acid for its antioxidant power; Niacinamide and vitamin C to fight against the appearance of dark spots, and Hyaluronic acid to smooth and plump the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Combining all these ingredients in 1 product was quite challenging as they are quite difficult to formulate together. The challenge was to develop formula supports adapted to each active ingredient to ensure their stability and optimal effectiveness. For instance, Ferulic acid is a very difficult molecule to stabilize because it is sensitive to temperature and pH variations. By formulating it in a water-free base, we are able to protect it from degradation and to preserve its potency over time, says Black, adding,
— We now have the benefits and advantages of 1 anti-ageing formula, 1 anti-spot formula, and 1 antioxidant formula in one single dose so that you can experience ultimate sensoriality, the performance of a serum with the caring texture, and comfort of a cream. When you layer several products, it is possible that the formulas are not compatible with the skin.
Each ingredient has its specificities and needs to be formulated in a certain way, which, as mentioned, is why they’re stored in separated chambers within the packaging.
— If these powerful ingredients do not have the right formula, we will not get the desired performance, so we formulated our ingredients separately to ensure their stability, optimal concentration, and performance. Hyaluronic acid and gluco-peptides are better in water, Ferulic Acid needs to be formulated without water and the Vitamin C derivative and Niacinamide need water at a lower pH to deliver the best performance. If mixed together in the same formula, they will not be stable over time losing efficacy and also impacting the sensorial properties of the product, such as a change in colour and smell, Black concludes.