At the CIFF trade fair the other week, the Copenhagen-based VR and spatial experience design company presented X–Ray Fashion — Upcycled, a VR documentary and installation about the fast fashion industry.
— It’s trying to shed light on how unethical and polluting this industry is. It takes around 15 minutes to walk through it, and it’s a combination of different elements — even more immersive and interactive than the previous version, she says, continuing,
— It uses hand tracking, so you walk through different scenes and you have to use your hands to advance in the scenes, which are a mix of 3D elements and 360 videos. Different scenes focus on different phases of the production of a garment; the visitor will walk through cotton fields, water that has been polluted because of all the dyeing, and a seamstress workshop. It takes you on the whole story from the beginning to the end of the life of a garment.
— We wanted to come to CIFF because we feel it should be showcased in a space with a lot of fashion while maybe not so much focus on sustainability. We really want the brands to see it. The installation is touring and has been exhibited in different locations and settings, and fashion fairs are definitely one of our targets; to bring the topic there and push the sustainability agenda.
— The topic itself is challenging. Naturally, there are always technical challenges, decisions to be made when it comes to hardware, coding difficulties and the like, but in this case, the biggest challenge was to take a topic like sustainability and bring it to the audience in a clear, honest, approachable but serious way. Talking about sustainability is difficult, it often happens on a very high level, leaving a lot of people out of the conversation. It also tends to get messy and unapproachable, leaving people either confused, disinterested or simply hopeless.
— We wanted to create an experience that warns but does not make you feel hopeless and helpless, because there are things you can do. Mindful storytelling is a challenge, but extremely rewarding when done right.
”Mindful storytelling is a challenge, but extremely rewarding when done right”
When you talk to the visitors, what do they say?
— It’s usually a very emotional journey for them. One thing, I think, is that it’s a VR setting, which a lot of people are unfamiliar with and have to get used to. But the message is very, very straightforward, and the story is very easy to follow, which also makes it so powerful. There’s no bullshit, and people can follow it easily, so there’s no confusion about what’s going on. When they come out, they’re usually very touched and emotional and start thinking about their own responsibilities. The exhibition is meant to talk to the visitor on a personal, individual level to also reflect on their purchases, how they approach fashion, buy their clothes, take care of them, and get rid of them. So, it’s usually a very personal journey.
Although VR glasses haven’t boomed as much as we predicted a few years ago, it’s growing. What’s your view on VR? And what do your partners say about the interest?
— There’s of course still a barrier because the tech is quite expensive and not so approachable. If you don’t have your own VR glasses, it’s hard to get the experience. That’s why we want to bring it to public places so people can experience it. In a public setting like this, where you don’t have to have your own VR glasses to walk through something, it’s no longer a barrier, Börönte says. She continues:
— People also enjoy experimenting with it. It’s quite fun and especially with the hand tracking and the interactive elements, it’s easy to get into it. Before you didn’t have to do anything but just walk through it. That was already very powerful. But it becomes more engaging and playful when you also do something with your hands and are part of the story, driving it forward.
How can brands and stakeholders make VR and new tech a business opportunity?
— VR’s true power lies in its ability to transport you to and ground you in places and scenarios that are otherwise hard to experience.
— Take the topic of sustainability. It often does not translate because we sit in a privileged position far away from where climate change has its harshest effects. It does not directly affect our daily lives just yet, therefore, it is easy to ignore it. With X-Ray Fashion, you get to step into polluted water, stand in the middle of a landfill, and look into the eyes of the sweatshop worker who made your clothes under horrible conditions — and you simply cannot look away. You can no longer ignore it.
— The same can be said for other topics in other fields. We just came back from the Venice Film Festival where every year there is a whole island dedicated to immersive experiences. Many of the best ones this year put a huge focus on combining empathy-building with education, exploring topics such as mental health, trauma, societal issues, and the climate. There are plenty of opportunities to get into these topics utilising VR.
— Technology is rapidly evolving. Things change fast. It is hard to keep up and know what the right tools are to invest in, especially when we are always chasing instant gratification. I am a researcher at heart, so my recommendation is always to do your research. Try not to get too lost in the hype cycle and think about more long-term investments, not just the now.
— As for VR, if you are still sceptical, just try it. Exposure therapy! I think it is important not to underestimate your audience. People want to learn, you just have to give them the chance.
You mentioned the touring, and this week sees the opening of a new experience.
— Yes, we’ll be in Ringkøbing, Denmark, for the next two weeks. It’s the municipality that wanted to rent it out because they also want to get familiar with VR and educate their own staff and their citizens, especially younger audiences.
The target group for this really is broad.
— Yes, exactly. We want to bring it to more educational settings. We’ve written a playbook for schools that can walk inside the experience, to bring it to younger audiences as well, so that they get familiar with the message that we want to communicate. This playbook is also available freely online, so anyone can use it without seeing the experience. In the playbook, we want to make sustainability approachable, easy, and not so overwhelming. There are exercises in it that you can do at home, Börönte shares. She adds:
— Going forward, the schools will be an additional target group to our usual suspects — museums, trade shows, fairs, fashion weeks, and events focusing on the climate.
