Launches we like: March
We share 13 highlights that hit the market during the last weeks, including upcycling from Finland, Swedish innovations, and Icelandic hot springs serving as fragrance inspiration. Also: the leading hairdressing entrepreneur launching his own private label while urging his industry to undergo a much-needed digital transformation.
4 Apr 2024

Swedish innovation now available to everyone

Using a new clinically proven active multi peptide-complex, Xlash launches a new lash and brow serum, Xbrow Sensitive, that is suitable also for more sensitive eyes. It contains nourishing ingredients from bioactive algae to prevent breakage and vegan keratin to strengthen hair follicles, boost growth, and reduce shedding. The product is oil- and prostaglandin-free and hypoallergenic and promises up to 39% longer lashes.

The not-so-new superfood

New Finnish brand Nobe has already secured a bunch of awards for its range of beauty products, and last month saw the unveiling of two more. Cooling Care Frosty Face Mist is hydrating, infused with a combination of upcycled Fazer Xylitol, aloe vera, and peppermint, to strengthen the skin barrier. The mentioned innovation by Fazer is the world’s first xylitol made from high-quality oat hulls that comes from the side streams of oat production by the Finnish food company. It’s a prebiotic ingredient that effectively binds moisture to the skin and has a cooling and calming effect. The other new launch, Oat Wonder Luminous Lip Oil, is nourishing and combines the shine of a lip gloss with the comfort of a lip care product. The key ingredient, organic oat oil, also comes from Fazer and is harvested near its own mill using a CO2 extraction process. Considered a superfood for centuries in the Nordics, oats are known to be beneficial for the skin, given that it’s rich in fatty acids, vitamin E, and ceramides.

Uniting probiotics with skincare and makeup

Swedish beauty brand Isadora introduces CC+Cream — a hybrid between skincare and make-up, formulated with lactobacillus ferment lysate to help create a healthy, thriving microbiome. With a low to medium coverage, it gives the skin a natural glow. The brand has also added extra protection, SPF 30, and the product is vegan and cruelty-free, and suitable for sensitive skin types, using more sustainable packaging made from sugar cane.

The scent of Icelandic warm springs

The leading Icelandic fragrance brand Andrea Maack — created by the visual artist and entrepreneur carrying the brand name — just launched the new fragrance JEST, together with perfumer Julien Rasquinet. Using sweet notes from apple and plum, a richness from rhum and chocolate, and a soft base from vanilla and musk, it wants to take the wearer on a journey through the Icelandic landscape with its warm springs. 

Taming frizzy and unmanageable hair

Moroccanoil adds two new members to its Frizz Control Collection. The Frizz Control Shampoo and Conditioner are formulated with upcycled jackfruit extract, the signature ingredient argan oil, nori extract, and amaranth oil. The formulation shall reduce flyaways and frizzy hair, making the hair manageable even in humid conditions while protecting the keratin structure.

Beauty sleep in a bottle

The latest launch from The Ordinary is a new member to its Retinoid line, the Retinal 0,2% Emulsion. While retinol must undergo a two-step process to convert into vitamin A when applied to the skin, the retinaldehyde in this product only needs a single conversion to reduce skin ageing signs. This single-step process offers a more efficient delivery of the bioactive form of the molecule as most retinoids must be converted to their bioactive form once applied, in order to bring about benefits to the skin. Apply it at night to maximise its effectiveness.

”Hair has been a way for me to express myself”

Known for her fluffy blowout, Matilda Djerf has now added the first beauty launches to her influencer brand Djerf Avenue. Naturally, Djerf Avenue Beauty’s two debuting products are within the hairstyling segment — the Breezy Styling Mist and the On The Go Styling Gel. Both are produced in Sweden, from formulation to final paper carton boxing, using two key ingredients — aloe vera and hydrolysed linseed extracts. The mist also contains hydrolysed wheat protein, panthenol, and sunflower seed extracts while the gel is formulated with marula oil, glycerine, and squalane.

— For as long as I can remember, hair has been a way for me to express myself, Djerf explains. To provide my hair with the results I’ve always looked for, I knew I’d have to create my own products. After months of testing and improving the formula, we are now launching our first two styling products.

Next-level eye care

After the successful launch of Rénergie H.C.F. Triple Serum, Lancôme just added a sibling in the shape of an eye serum to the range. Formulated with hydrating hyaluronic acid, SNK-peptide, vitamin C and F, and niacinamide, it’s designed to provide anti-ageing benefits in its triple dose. The application is a triple massage protocol where one push mixes the three potent actives and blends between fingertips. 

A day-night system for younger-looking hands

Necessaire just unveiled a new duo — The Hand Cream and The Hand Retinol — for an elevated hand-care experience. The cream is infused with five ceramides and five peptides, Niacinamide, and marula butter to help reverse dryness, treat loss of volume, and recover brittle cuticles. Developed for use in the day time while The Hand Retinol is a serum for the night. It contains 0.25% retinol, AHA, peptides, vitamin and glycerin to repair and help treat and prevent crepiness, lines, wrinkles, spots, and marks.

The brand-new Miracle Mask — only for 18+.

The first brand to introduce an age limit to active skincare products

Following the recent social media trend where young children and teenagers are inspired to purchase and use skincare with active ingredients, Mantle leads the way and introduces an age limit to their products. When visiting the brand’s website, the customer is now asked to answer an age-related question. By doing this, the Swedish beauty brand hopes to create awareness about the damage active ingredients like retinol can cause in young skin.

An at-home treatment to reduce dark spots

PowerBright Dark Spot Peel is a 15-minute at-home treatment from Dermalogica. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) caused by sun exposure, hormones and acne is targeted with key ingredients AHA, PHA, omega-3-rich algae, tranexamic acid, turmeric and niacinamide. The formulation aims to fade pigmentation spots, reduce PHI triggers, and improve the skin tone. It has been clinically tested on a wide range of skin tones, including the Fitzpatrick levels I-VI.

Reducing signs of ageing

Beauty brand Kerstin Florian introduces a new age-reversing serum to their Correcting Skincare line. The Correcting Retinol Serum has a combination of key ingredients from retinol, adaptogens, botanical extracts and the HA+ Complex. It is designed as an overnight treatment and aims to reduce signs of ageing by increased cell renewal, improved hydration, and a reduction of uneven skin tone.

Henrik Danielsson.

”Hair is hair — it has no gender, only needs”

Malmö-based hairdresser salon Headon just expanded its business with the launch of a range of eight Swedish-produced and vegan hair care and styling products.

— One of the most important aspects for me as a business leader is undoubtedly to get the whole team to join the journey — alone is not strong in order to continue growing the business, founder Henrik Danielsson explains. By involving the employees and leveraging the massive and diverse skills and creativity they possess, we can create a sense of participation and pride in the brand they represent.

What was the most challenging when creating your in-house label?  

— Transitioning from idea to execution. With a strong team of skilled hairdressers, it was somewhat of a challenge to synchronise and then distil them into a few products. Communicating the feeling and concept of a product to the chemists wasn’t always a straightforward task, and it took many rounds back and forth with samples to get the formulations exactly the way we wanted them. Now that we have launched the first eight products, we are taking everything we’ve learned along the journey into the product development of upcoming products — we already see that the process has become more streamlined.

What are the most crucial things to stay relevant as a salon in 2024 but also in the years to come? 

— To keep moving, Danielsson shares. We must constantly develop our business and our employees, as well as advocate for the advancement of the entire industry. By transitioning from solely salon operations to product development, we give the business more legs to stand on and more opportunities for employees to grow in different directions.

— We have also launched Headon Co. Lab, a creative hub in the heart of Malmö. It’s a place where creativity can flow freely and where we can get together for education, workshops, photo shoots, and product development. It’s also a way to connect with other creative people within our own industry, as well as other industries. 

— Another hugely important aspect is pushing for the digital development of the hairdressing industry. We have been working for some time to develop our digital customer journey and to make the customer journey seamless between digital and in-person experiences. Hairdressers need to become more digital. When we have the client in the chair, it’s important to give them an experience, preferably a tailored one. Here, the digital realm can help tailor the experience for the client, both in terms of services and products.

What macro trend in the industry do you think will be the next ”buzzword”? What will we talk about in, say, a year from now?  

— We will talk much more about sustainability from a broader perspective. It’s no longer just about green and organic products; consumers will demand so much more moving forward. Greenwashing is now a widely accepted concept and it’s essential to work sustainably throughout the entire chain. Within the hairdressing industry, we hope to see an increasing trend of improved working conditions and stricter regulations. For example, it should be regulated who is allowed to purchase chemical products and perform chemical treatments, to avoid incorrect treatments and allergic reactions. It also affects price competition when some have professional certificates and others do not, yet both are allowed to perform the same treatments, often with very different results, says Danielsson. He adds:

— We also see an increase in smaller brands that are challenging the big ones in a growing market — again, based on the digital aspect. Brands that succeed with their digital strategy are also the ones that can challenge the major players. There is also a great need for expertise; consumers demand more, and we need more trained and qualified hairdressers. An incredibly exciting trend is that more and more investors are beginning to show interest in the industry and are willing to invest. This will help drive the industry forward and accelerate development, especially in the digital transition.