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Briefing
5 innovative essentials from the world of watches
We highlight new brand Neumann and launches from Breitling, Linde Werdelin, Bravur, and TRIWA.
By JOHAN MAGNUSSON
23 Nov 2020

Linde Werdelin pushes the boundaries of what is possible with a lume dial

During the day, the London-based Danish-Swiss watchmaker’s Oktopus Blue Sea is clean and monochromatic, with a subtle dial and facets on the milky white case. In darkness, however, the piece comes to life and features three different colours of the Badgerite lume. (Lume is a short term for the luminous phosphorescent glowing solution applied on watch dials.) These shades of blue become progressively darker as you go down deeper into the watch as if you are looking off the edge of a boat into deepening water in a reef. 

Launching today, it’s the first collaboration between Linde Werdelin and James Thompson, advanced materials specialist to the watch industry and also known as Black Badger.

— What I call Badgerite is a material I use extensively in my work. The Oktopus Blue Sea makes use of new innovations in lume application as well. Some areas are surface coated, some are liquid-infilled engravings, and some are even using the Lumicast method, where components are literally cast in solid [strontium aluminate phosphor-based] SLN glow material, he says.

TRIWA launches new line to highlight the global spread of ocean plastic

After a successful launch of the Time for Oceans collection with watches made completely from recycled ocean plastic, TRIWA now launches the sequel collection called Time for Oceans Arctic. This mini collection, consisting of two watches, has gained inspiration from the dramatic landscapes and oceans surrounding Iceland. Both case and strap are made from 100% recycled ocean plastic produced by #tide Ocean Material in Switzerland. The ocean waste is transformed into granular with the help of solar energy, and has then been remoulded into the watch.

Time for Oceans was launched on the 14th of April 2020 and has since then helped recycle an equivalent of 10 000 PET bottles from the sea. With the new collection, the brand’s goal is to spread awareness for a broader cleanup and recycle another 10 000 until the 14th of April 2021.

— We want to spread awareness about our ocean’s critical health and be part of the solution. We also see customers buying a Time for Oceans watch as ambassadors for the cause. Where the watch itself becomes a statement piece and a story for your wrist, says Ludvig Scheja, Creative Director.

Two generations of Wingårdh celebrate the Scandinavian light with Bravur

Launching today, famous Swedish architect Gert Wingårdh and his son, award-winning designer Rasmus Wingårdh, have interpreted Swedish watch brand Bravur’s Scandinavia model. The result is a watch inspired by the Swedish west coast and the Scandinavian light and comes in a light and dark version, limited to only 50 pieces. It’s characterized by a geometric fish scale pattern on the dial, backside, and leather strap, inspired by the west coast with its fishing and seafood culture.

— As an architect, you always have to take light into consideration, and I wanted light to play an important part in our watch design as well. The pattern, with its unique play with light, creates a compelling and unique watch. I like playful and bold designs with a purpose when it comes to buildings, but also when designing watches, says Gert Wingårdh.

— When working with minimalistic designs all details must be extremely well-thought through, and that is what I love about Scandinavian design. This watch is the perfect accessory for style conscientious consumers that appreciate Scandinavian design, both men and women. The pattern makes the watch stand out while still being timeless, says Rasmus Wingårdh.

The watches are hand built and tested in Båstad, Sweden, featuring a Swiss made automatic movement, caliber SW300-1.

Breitling announces a step toward a cleaner environment

The new launch of the Superocean Heritage ’57 Outerknown is the Swiss premium brand’s third watch in collaboration with Outerknown, the sustainable apparel brand co-founded by surfing legend Kelly Slater. The modern-retro sea watch features a bronze-colored dial and Outerknown’s NATO strap made of ECONYL yarn. Created exclusively from recycled nylon waste, some of which is recovered from discarded or lost fishing nets, the straps are not only recycled but also completely recyclable.

— We both share the same passion for clean oceans and beaches. And creating watches with the ECONYL yarn straps we designed with Breitling is a nice message and our symbol towards a cleaner environment while developing products, says Kelly Slater.

New brand Neumann uses local production to create quality in every detail

Thomas Neumann has worked as a product developer at the likes of H&M, Björn Borg, Fjällräven, and Boomerang for more than 25 years. When his wife wanted to give him a watch for his 40th birthday, she asked him to choose one that he wanted.

— She knows I’m picky, he tells.

Time passed, and he never found that perfect watch.

— A few years ago, I found my dad’s old watch. Memories of the stories he used to tell us came back as I held it in my hand. That’s when I decided to create my own watch, inspired by the times of my father. 

Neumann Klockor (Neumann Watches) is now run by him, together with his mentioned wife Rebecka, an experienced graphic designer.

— Our first model is called INITIAL No.1. It’s based on a 40mm stainless steel case and comes in 9 different colourways. We wanted to manufacture watches that give our customers the very best. Quality in every detail. A craft based on the precision of not only the movement but every little detail from the wristband to the beautiful raised sapphire glass. We’re using quality Swiss movements and the wristbands, packaging, and interior is all made in Sweden, in both locally produced and recycled materials. It’s a classic watch with modern details and thoughtful material choices. Like a bridge between past and present. A timelessness that captures today.