Dannie Larsson loves math, studied economics in Paris, and worked in a bank before looking for new adventures, founding Rare Jewelry.
— The bank job was boring but also good, she says. When you design a piece of jewellery, you have to be able to count: Will this be able to work in a piece of jewellery with diamond setting? So, now, I combine mathematics with my love for design. When I design a limited-edition ring, I also make my own design of the cutting of the gemstone. And to be able to cut a gemstone, you have to be able to calculate the angles. For example, I draw the ring and normally, it has around 20 facades of cutting while I try to design something that will sparkle more. Therefore, if possible, I add some cutting angles and can design a completely innovative piece of jewellery that no one would expect.
How rare is this technique?
— I think I’m kind of unique. I’m sure it exists but I haven’t heard anyone else doing it. I always try to do something that I haven’t seen before, something more difficult and rare compared to everyone else.
Innovation, Larsson continues, is key in her daily operations.
— I now make a lot of elastic bracelets which is not too easy. Normally, you work with gold and diamonds but I try to use other materials, such as titanium, and therefore, I can make those elastic tennis bracelets (a bracelet where a symmetrical pattern of diamonds or gemstones is connected by a thin metal chain, Ed’s note). Then you don’t need a lock, you can just have the inside in titanium — it’s gonna last the same for hundreds and hundreds of years — while on the outside, you use gold and diamonds.
What are the main challenges of working with titanium?
— It’s a very hard material, so it’s very hard to work with. If you would set diamonds in titanium, it’s extremely difficult to manufacture but having it on the inside of a bracelet makes it easier to work with and therefore, I can use both titanium, diamonds, and gold at the same time.
Rare Jewelry just won the Craft award at the Swedish NK Galan and is about to launch a special capsule, inspired by Swedish artist Hilma af Klint.
— She was amazing. I love both her personality and the paintings. They inspired me to design three different collections, using spirals and triangles and a modern art of technique in manufacturing, and worn by Lena Olin and Tora Hallström for the grand premier of the new film Hilma.
After that, what’s next for you?
— I’m always trying to find new innovations, such as finding solutions for diamond settings. For example, with one of my bracelets, I don’t use any gold in between the diamond. It’s called ’invisible setting’. And why do I do that? First of all, you have no stop. If you check the sparkle of the diamond… if you have gold, you have gold setting, and you stop the sparkle. I want to produce a sparkle carpet and to do that, I want to minimize the gold in between, so now, I want to use invisible setting in more pieces of jewellery, says Larsson. She adds:
— I’m also working a lot with stretch chokers and comfortable jewellery. I want people to be able to wear their jewellery like everyday wear. They should be good enough to wear when you go to the gym or for a swim, so I always try to find new techniques for the jewellery to last longer. The secret? I design something and then I try it for a long time myself — I’m a sporty person and I want to be able to wear it for everyday use.